The India

Food, festivals, travel, arts.

Regional kitchens

The Quiet Craft of Manipur's Fermented Kitchen

Launch library · evergreen read

Photo: Indian veg thali 20201012 by Ashu1972 (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Openverse

Tucked into the hills of the northeast, Manipuri cooking leans heavily on fermentation, a technique that turns fish, soybean and bamboo shoot into ingredients with flavours far more complex than their raw versions suggest. Central to this is ngari, a fermented fish paste that anchors many dishes, alongside hawaijar, a fermented soybean preparation valued for its pungency and its role in balancing lighter, leafier ingredients.

These techniques were shaped by necessity as much as taste, developed long ago as a way to preserve protein and greens through seasons when fresh supply was uncertain, the resulting flavours becoming so central to the cuisine that they are now sought out for their own sake. Dishes such as eromba, a mashed vegetable and fish preparation, or various bamboo shoot curries carry that distinctive fermented note.

What distinguishes Manipuri food further is its lightness, meals frequently built around boiled or steamed vegetables, minimal oil and rice as a steady base, the fermented elements providing intensity without heaviness. It is a cuisine that rewards patience in both preparation and appreciation, its sharper flavours opening slowly to those willing to move past a first, unfamiliar taste.

Back to the library

Share

Sharing opens the network in a new tab. No tracking scripts are loaded on this page.

Printed from The India. Sources for this article are listed at the end of the page.